We started renovating our master bath almost two years ago. I thought I would do this backwards and show you some of the small finishing projects first. First up, our diy framed mirror. We have the standard builder grade mirror in our master bathroom. Rather than buy a frame or a new mirror (both expensive options), I decided to frame the mirror using chair rail molding.
I needed hubby Richard to help me with this project. Here’s how we did it, and as usual, the lessons we learned on what not to do:
Measure each side of the mirror and mark the outside edges of the molding to this measurement. Cut each end at a 45 degree angle- you can use a miter saw or a miter box & hand saw. Like my Christmas present?
The molding was pre-primed. I added a coat of pure white chalk paint, a coat of polycrylic, glaze, and finished with a couple more coats of polycrylic. Any white latex paint would do for the base coat and you wouldn’t need to add the polycrylic layer before glazing. I just used the chalk paint because it’s what I had on hand. I had to add a coat of paint to the back side for an inch or so from the inside edge- it will reflect in the mirror.
My first thought was to glue each piece onto the mirror individually using Liquid Nails. When I glued the first piece on the mirror (taping into place to dry), I realized it wasn’t going to work because our mirror is attached to the wall with clips, which held the frame off the mirror in those spots. Phooey! It actually stayed in place, but I couldn’t handle the large gaps between the mirror and frame. This method would work great if your mirror is glued to the wall with no clips.
Richard decided to assemble the frame before hanging it to make it easier to get the corners square. He put it together using corner braces and glue. We still had the issue of the clips holding the frame off the mirror, so we needed to carve out those areas on the frame. In order to mark the position of the clips, I smeared them with lipstick so that when we pressed the frame onto the mirror, the lipstick would mark the spots. This worked perfectly, but guess what- the [metal] corner braces were covering the very areas we needed to carve. Another phooey!
Plan 2 (3?): Use heavy duty double sided mounting tape to attach the frame. The tape has a spongy center, but still not thick enough to compensate for the clips, so Richard used a double thickness of tape, cutting each piece 1- 2 inches long, placed probably about 6 or 8 inches apart. He used more at the corners. It worked- whew! Because of the increased distance from the mirror’s surface, more of the back side of the frame is reflected in the mirror than would be the case if it were lying flush. I may go back and glue another small strip of molding to minimize that.
As you can see, my mitered corners were far from perfect.
Nothing a little caulk couldn’t fix.
So much better, don’t you think?
After this little lesson in what NOT to do, would you rather frame your mirror, or just buy a pretty one to hang?
Now, I need your help. Next project, hanging curtains over the tub. There are a lot of weird wall/ceiling heights and angles in the room, which make it hard to figure out what to do. As you can see below, the shower wall doesn’t go up to the ceiling. Also, the ceiling starts a slant just at the top of this picture. Can you give me some suggestions? What height would you hang the curtains? I’m trying to decide if the curtain rod needs to be at the same height as the shower wall or higher. If higher, how much higher?
Thanks for any suggestions you can give me! And yes, I know my candles are crooked- the holders are crooked and I already broke one arm completely off trying to straighten it. It’s turned to the back….